UK Hols

Me @ Keswick Climbing Wall

Me @ Keswick Climbing Wall

I’ve just got back from a week in the UK, a week that feels like a month in fact.

We did a ‘marginally deferred’ UK Christmas Day on the afternoon of the 26th when we arrived, doing the whole tree / presents thing followed by a proper* Christmas dinner. (* Where proper is defined by each individual as what they had as a child – in my case, my Mum’s Christmas dinner.)

The next two days were a trip to the English lake district with a group of old friends. Day one was an afternoon on Keswick’s indoor climbing wall, followed by fish and chips. The second day was a rather blustery** tromp up Cat Bells. (** where blustery is defined as howlin’ a bloomin’ gale)

The remaining four days were spent up in Scotland playing with my niece while pretending to do lots of other things but really just playing with K. It was a lovely four family days, and really what Christmas is all about for me.

The whole trip was topped off with an evening in the pub with old friends who I really get to see too rarely.

I was going to make this post something poignant and reflective, having been home at the turn of a new year, my 34th at that. To be honest though, I had such a great little holiday I’m going to leave here.

Some photos (mostly of the lake district trip) have made it to Flickr.

Oh, and a belated Happy Christmas and a Merry New Year to you all.

China 2010: The Return to Hangzhou

Looking Back at Hangzhou

Ah, Hangzhou, what to say about Hangzhou.

Those first two weeks travelling just felt like being on holiday. It was nice to discover that my Chinese (such as it is) came back to me really quickly. I was ‘a bit slow’ the first few days but don’t think I’ve actually forgotten much. It was also great to be back eating Chinese food again. Overall though, it was very much like a holiday, albeit to a somewhat familiar place.

Then we went to Hangzhou… And I promised you an update about how that was. I wasn’t really sure what to expect. I was excited to go back but at the same time I was sort of expecting that I would have changed, that Hangzhou would have changed and that the overall feeling would be of a place, that used to be familiar and wasn’t any more. That turned out not to be the case.

Well if I learned anything from the experience it was that trying to compare places you have lived, at different points in time is inherently false. You change, places change it’s just not apples to apples, it can’t be.

Hangzhou though… the first thing, of course, is people. I said it on the day I left and it remains true, that the best thing about Hangzhou for me remains the great friends I have there (though the number slowly diminishes with time).

There are also some things inherently about Hangzhou that I love. The proximity of a bustling city with all the eats, drinks and dos that provides to nature is rare. The lake and more so the hills that border the city are a rare treat and whatever course Hangzhou’s development takes that’s unlikely to change. I hugely enjoyed running by the lake again and hiking through the hills, past temples pavilions and tea fields. I can’t see me every tiring of those hills.

Familiarity is also important. It’s nice to go back to places to which you have a connection. Where you have memories, where you remember feeling comfortable, at home.

There are also some things about Hangzhou that are perhaps just linked to the current period in its development. It remains an exciting place to be. There is some magic combination related to the current stage of development and pace of development. It’s certainly helped by the number of expats (not too few, not too many). It all comes together to make it interesting. It seems (in my limited interactions) that everybody is going somewhere. Starting a new job, starting a new business, checking out a new bar, raving about a new restaurant. The city, for me, still has a buzz about it that I always enjoyed.

Mostly though, what I got from the experience was a sense of perspective on my own relationship with the city. Hangzhou was a very significant part of my life. Depending on how you count it, it was, from this vantage point, half of my adult life. It’s no longer the most relevant part to where I am now, as I approach my second anniversary in Prague – it’s definitely Prague. Nonetheless, Hangzhou was a big part of my life. That will diminish as the years go by, there is no question of that. It will always remain though, where I lived, for six years, from being 25 years old to being 31 years old.

Hangzhou is not Newcastle, my hometown – that’s special. But, I like Hangzhou. I will keep going back, I have no doubt, and it did feel just a little bit like going home.

China 2010: Zhongdian

Songzanlin Monastery

�赞林寺

Click here to see the full set of photos on Flickr.

Finally, we went Zhongdian (now, somewhat unfortunately, renamed to Shangri-la). Ascending (it’s at 3300m) to Zhongdian felt like entering a different place – everything changed, the landscape, the people, the buildings, the farming practices. I’ve not been to Tibet but I imagine that Zhongdian feels very ‘Tibetan’. If nothing else, there were yak everywhere!

We visited SongZanLin monastery, which felt more ‘authentic’ than any other I’ve been to in China and took a trip out to Pudacuo national park which, frankly, is a real gem. Being in Zhongdian really felt like being in some wild, rarely visited place. The alititude certainly helped.

This post is one of a series of posts about our recent China holiday. To see all posts in the series, click here.

China 2010: Tiger Leaping Gorge

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain from Tiger Leaping Gorge

Click here to see the full set of photos on Flickr.

Tiger Leaping Gorge was one of the real highlights of the trip for me. We hiked from Qiaotou (1800m) to the highest point of the trail at (2650m) and on to a guest house where we overnighted before decending back to the road and the continuing down (almost) to the bottom of the gorge. As one would expect from the deepest gorge in the world the scenery was frankly spectacular, every bend in the trail a new and different photo opportunity.

This post is one of a series of posts about our recent China holiday. To see all posts in the series, click here.

China 2010: Lijiang

Lanterns by Night

Lanterns in Lijiang

Click here to see the full set of photos on Flickr.

Lijiang was great. I expected touristy which probably helpded, it is FULL of domestic tourists but that somehow didn’t detract from the charm of the place. I really enjoyed it for it was. We took a bike ride out to a nearby village Shuhe (part of the same UNESCO site) which was nice too. There was plenty to see and the presence of / and presentation of the Naxi minority culture managed not to feel too contrived.

This post is one of a series of posts about our recent China holiday. To see all posts in the series, click here.

China 2010: Guangxi Province

Rafting on the Li River

Guilin to Yangshuo

Click here to see the full set of photos on Flickr.

So, China. Well, I guess after my pre-China post I owe you an update on what it was actually like going back.

So first things first, we spent the first two weeks out west in Guangxi and Yunnan provinces. I’d not been anywhere near that far west before so it was kind of like being in a new place.

The feeling was compounded by how backpacker friendly and just, frankly, how many packpackers there were in Guilin and Yangshou. If felt, very much, like south east Asia.

Guilin, while being very much a Chinese city like anyother, managed to have some charm of it’s own. Like Hangzhou, I guess it breaks the mold a little. THE boat ride to Yangshou was suitablly amazing and well worth the trip. Yangshou itself was nice. If anything the old town reminded me of Koh San Road in Bangkok but it redeemed itself by the setting and (if it handn’t rained the whole time) provides great access to hiking, biking, canoeing and climbing trips. Due to the weather, we ended up in cooking class, which was great. Though being taken to ‘visit’ the Chinese wet market was frankly a bit strange having lived next door to one for years.

The ‘Sleeping Bus’, was an experience and that’s all I have to say about that.

This post is one of a series of posts about our recent China holiday. To see all posts in the series, click here.